Needing some
time alone, I made my way to a place on the rocky coastline, where I knew I was
unlikely to be disturbed from my thoughts. I had been unable to practice Silat
for a full week now, due to injuries received at the last training session. The
bruises had cleared up but I still found it difficult to sleep, and walking anywhere
was uncomfortable. Still, I needed to get moving, to hear the sound of the
ocean, to recharge my senses, and reconnect with the world around me.
I was
looking for something, but I was unsure of what I might find. I felt slightly
anxious with anticipation of the unknown. The ocean breeze took some of the
heat out of the overhead sun, cooling my skin as I traversed the rocks, spraying
me with fine droplets as I continued making my way to an area where tall pines
grew amongst the papaya trees.
A thin figure
of a man emerged from the ocean ahead of me, and walked across the rocks in my
direction, leaving a trail of water after him. His skin was dark brown from the
sun, his hair was cropped close to his skull, and he wore no decorations or
jewellery. The most striking characteristic about him was his blue eyes, rare
in someone from this part of the world.
He smiled faintly as he approached me,
and stuck out his hand, offering the traditional greeting of peace. His grip
was strong, like he didn’t want to let go of my hand. I matched his grip, unsure
at first if it was a trap, thinking maybe he wanted to take advantage of me
here on the rocks. Gripping his hand I felt an unexpected level of awareness. There
was something familiar about him yet also something slightly unnerving. Perhaps
it was only his blue eyes I thought, yet I was reluctant to drop my guard. He
seemed to notice my hesitation, and cautioned me to be careful in such a way
that I was left wondering what exactly he meant. Then he left go of my hand and
wished me peace. The waves pounded the rocky shoreline, spraying us both with
salt water.
I continued on
my way, now and again looking over my shoulder to make sure I was not being
followed, and settled down on a flat rock under the pines to watch the sunset. Two
great sea eagles had been perched in the uppermost branches of the pines, and
as I arrived they took off.
One of them headed out to sea, the other one headed towards the volcano. Beautiful creatures they were, floating effortlessly until they were soon out of sight. I kept my eyes fixed on the horizon, hoping to catch a glimpse of one of them, and was startled when a shadow fell across me. How long had I been staring into space I wondered. Standing silently before me with his back to the sun was the man who I had met earlier. He carried in his hands a small bundle wrapped in blue plastic, was holding it like it contained something precious.
One of them headed out to sea, the other one headed towards the volcano. Beautiful creatures they were, floating effortlessly until they were soon out of sight. I kept my eyes fixed on the horizon, hoping to catch a glimpse of one of them, and was startled when a shadow fell across me. How long had I been staring into space I wondered. Standing silently before me with his back to the sun was the man who I had met earlier. He carried in his hands a small bundle wrapped in blue plastic, was holding it like it contained something precious.
He again offered
me a greeting of peace, and I returned it to him, motioning him to sit down.
The truth was he had caught me off guard, in a moment of utter relaxation. He
laughed, as if he had just read my thoughts, and offered me a cigarette. I
noticed he had only two left so I pulled out my pack, the local currency here,
and gave him some. He took two, but did not light up.
He opened his
blue bundle and from where I was sitting I could see that it contained a bundle
of small notes, a shirt, and what appeared to be a kris dagger.
I became alarmed
at the sight of the knife, but the man smiled and offered me the fist of money
instead. I was confused, but the man only grinned and started speaking to me
rapidly in a mix of English and Bahasa Indonesia. I declined his offer of money, by now intrigued
about this unusual character before me.
Although I
could not comprehend everything he said, I understood enough to know he was
speaking about my past. I had an uncanny feeling about this man, he seemed to
know everything about me and we had only just met. He laughed, and told me to
me careful. He reminded me of the time I was almost trapped in the back alleys
of an African city and was forced to fight, a story I had not shared with
anyone. He mentioned the machete and the four men who tried to rob me on a
separate occasion, thousands of miles ago. How could this man, a homeless man
with little or no formal education, know such a thing had occurred? He
continued speaking to me, reminding me about my family, and about places of
significance which I had visited in the past. I was rooted to the spot,
wondering what would he refer to next?
He told me I had two spirit protectors. It was not the first time I had heard this. The sea eagles had returned, and now hovered above me, as if to emphasize the moment. The man smiled, his blue eyes lighting at the edges.
He told me I had two spirit protectors. It was not the first time I had heard this. The sea eagles had returned, and now hovered above me, as if to emphasize the moment. The man smiled, his blue eyes lighting at the edges.
Throughout, he
kept repeating his advice to me to be careful, making me repeat the words until
he was satisfied. Although I knew by now that this man would not physically
harm me, the uneasy feeling in my gut refused to go away. I kept thinking of
the kris knife in his bag, wondering what it was for. Could it be used for more
than just self defence, I wondered?
I recalled the
story I had been told of an ancient Silat master who was deemed to be
invincible when in the possession of a kris blade. It could be that this man
believed such a story also, black majik flourished in these parts, and the
signs were everywhere for those who had eyes to see.
The man was most likely a dukun, I thought, a shaman. He looked into my eyes and smiled, nodded, and held out his hand. He asked me to be careful, said the word “parang” and made a chopping motion to the back of his neck. We shook hands, he wished me peace, and walked off over the rocks carrying his bundle with him. After watching the sundown, I slowly and carefully made my way home. I didn’t mention the encounter with the dukun to anyone.
The man was most likely a dukun, I thought, a shaman. He looked into my eyes and smiled, nodded, and held out his hand. He asked me to be careful, said the word “parang” and made a chopping motion to the back of his neck. We shook hands, he wished me peace, and walked off over the rocks carrying his bundle with him. After watching the sundown, I slowly and carefully made my way home. I didn’t mention the encounter with the dukun to anyone.
Two days
later, the dukun unexpectedly appeared at the door to the office. He was
smiling slightly as he asked the people inside for some spare change, but he
was looking directly at me. His eyes twinkled, and he reminded me to be
careful. He didn’t need to say anything to me, for the message was clear. Once
I pass through the doorway, there can be no going back. The parang could be
everywhere and anywhere. The shaman wished us all peace, and looked directly
into my eyes once more before walking away. I never saw him again.